Neil
Gresham is one of Britain's most well known all-round
climbers. He is equally at home on rock or ice and is one of
the few climbers in the world to have climbed the coveted
grade of E10, with his second ascent of the notorious
Equilibrium on Derbyshire gritstone. His enthusiasm for
climbing spans between Deep Water Soloing and 'sport-style'
chalk climbing, and his recent exploits have taken him to
destinations such as Sweden, Brazil, Mongolia, Cuba and
Vietnam in search of new rock. Neil is also the UK's most
experienced climbing coach. He is the training columnist for
Climber magazine and has been involved in regular coaching
and personalised training since 1993. Neil is also the
author of 'Preposterous Tales' a book he co-wrote with Tim
Emmet, as well as his very successful climbing master-class
DVD's. Neil's lectures include:
'My Top
10' - Neil's favourite routes from around the
world on sport, trad, ice and mixed including
countries such as the Norway, Cuba, Vietnam, Portugal,
Mongolia, and of course, the UK
'Recent Rock & Ice exploits' - including Fresiniere -
the ultimate French ice climbing venue, Lundy island -
1st Deep Water Solo of the Flying Dutchman, and new
routing in China with Seb Grieve.
Questions &
Answeres with Neil Gresham:
Age:
34
Years
climbing:
22
Status:
married
Achievements:
2nd
ascent of Equilibrium E10 7a, (hardest route on UK gritstone?)
3rd
ascent of Indian Face E9 6c, Cloggy North Wales
First
ground-up ascent of an 8a Deep Water Solo in UK
New routes
in Cuba, Mongolia, Vietnam & Brazil
M9 flash in
Fresiniere, Feb 06
Favorite
areas or routes:
At the
moment – Deep Water Soloing. Covo del Diabolo in Majorca is
my favourite crag in the world.
Describe
your climbing background.
I started
top roping on small sandstone crags in southern England and
then leading on trad in Devon and Dorset. I went to
University in Sheffield and got into sport climbing and
started going to France to do routes like La Rose and Chouca
at Buoux. Then it all changed and I got into Scottish winter
climbing and went back to trad, except this time it was
headpointing on grit and in the Welsh Mountains. From then
on I’ve been into everything from chalk climbing to Deep
Water Soloing.
Was there a
big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Undoubtedly
it was my repeat of Indian Face. It taught me that just
about anything is possible if you really set your mind to
it.
Describe
a memorable climbing experience.
The most
recent is my new 8a in China, ‘Lunar-tick’ which I
frantically bolted and climbed during the last two days of
the trip back in November 05. It’s the steepest pitch I’ve
ever climbed and it goes all the way through the arch at
Moonhill on crazy stalactites; (Moonhill is the coolest
limestone feature I’ve ever seen, let alone climbed on). The
pressure to send it was incredible seeing as I was unlikely
to ‘pop back to China’ just to finish a redpoint. How can
you describe how it feels – the scenery, the people, the
quality of the climbing. I just can’t recommend that place
enough.
What are you
up to when you’re not climbing?
I
do a lot of coaching and I see it as a really important
extension of my own climbing. Unfortunately I’m spending way
too much time at my desk these days.
Any
training advice or suggestions?
Break out of
your set routine – it’s doing new things that stops you from
plateauing. When it all seems to be going too well to be
true, stop and take a break – this is the best way to avoid
injury. Work on your technique every time you climb, it
gives you something to focus on when you’re warming up and
doing easy routes. Regarding the ideal mind state for
climbing - focus on the process and not the result. (ps:
check out my Masterclass DVDs!)
Who
or what inspires you?
Anyone who
gives it their all and doesn’t fall back on the standard
excuses. In the past, people like John Redhead, Ron Fawcett
and Johnny Dawes have had major influences on my choice of
routes .
How do you
see climbing evolving in the next five years?
The future
has to lie in multi-pitch or big wall climbing. There will
be rock routes with multiple pitches of 8c / 8c+ and in
mixed climbing, there’ll be multi-pitch M11/12s. In the UK,
someone will combine the new levels of bouldering strength
with headpointing tactics to produce E11s and 12s (and that
someone will be Dave Macleod!) Regarding my own climbing, I
want to continue exploring and putting up new routes using
whatever climbing style suits the rock. In particular I hope
to be doing more Deep Water Soloing. The potential for new
routing is mind blowing.
What do you
think about the 5.15 grade?
Someone will
climb it but it won’t be me! I just hope that grades don’t
get too crunched by trophy hunters. We’ve seen it happen a
lot with UK trad and Ben Moon always had a theory that this
was going on with sport climbing too.
Care to
comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes
or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing
holds, glue vs. no glue?
Pre-clipping’s seems ok as long as you do the down-climb.
Pre-placed gear should be minimized and always declared.
Chipping – no; comfortizing – maybe on sport limestone but
surely nowhere else? Glue may be a necessary evil on certain
loose sport cliffs.
Do you have
any vices and what are they?
Clubbing can
be pretty good fun but I’m cutting down these days.
Any near
death experiences?
Falling off
Mesguga (E9) on grit and getting away with only mild
concussion (although the car ride to hospital with Tim
Emmett was perhaps more terrifying!)
Are you a
fan of climbing history? Explain?
For sure.
It’s a huge part of British climbing. Our routes are
probably not the best in the world, but it’s the folk-law
that makes them so unique. We’re also running out of rock in
the UK so it’s inevitable that there is that attachment to
the past.
What are
your future plans or goals in climbing?
I need to
get strong again. I’ve been doing too much tradding and
adventuring – it’s been fun but I feel weak! I’d really like
to climb 8c this year but please don’t hold me to it!
