Pat
Littlejohn is the director of the International School of
Mountaineering based in Leysin, Switzerland, Pat is a man of
modest character and immense achievement. Pat is perhaps best
known as creator of some of the UK's most memorable climbing
voyages on superb and virgin cliffs lurking in remote and
beautiful environments. Mention a Littlejohn route, and the
word that most often comes to mind is 'commitment'. These are
truly world-class adventure routes, often on remote
sea-cliffs, usually climbed completely on sight into the
unknown.
Pat has created new routes in many areas of the world, often
at unconventional venues. Book Of Genesis in the Grand Canyon
climbed in 1978 is an early example, the first serious free
climbing in the Canyon. More recently in 1991 the first free
climb on the west face of Point John on Mt Kenya, an 11-pitch
5.12. In the Alps numerous first free ascents of climbs such
as the South Face of the Fou. His 1995 new route on Taweche in
Nepal with Mick Fowler was an epic affair with 43 technical
pitches, desperate bivvies, little food and achieved over
eight days in ultra-lightweight alpine style. With a sense of
humour, too.
Pat's approach to climbing is clearly defined. He is totally
convinced that the ground-up onsight approach is by far the
most rewarding climbing experience to be had. He has also been
prepared to speak out about the destruction of the adventure
climbing ethic in the Alps. "If we allow the sport-climbing
approach free rein in the mountains, we may wake up some day
to realize that we've sold out our unique sport for... a
synthetic substitute, offering virtual adventure where once we
had the real thing."
image: Pat
Littlejohn ©
